Welcome

This web log contains the website content for our journeys on Reflections IV from April 2000 to December 2008.
Click there to start at the start.
Col, Liz, Courtney & Anna

Monday, March 24, 2003

March 2003 - More of Bali

Photo slideshow


When we left Australia we said good-bye to our cat, Tiger. Although he was a bit of a problem aboard (marking his territory too often) he was our pet but we knew it was impractical to take him out of the country and then deal with Quarantine on our return.

We all liked the idea of a pet so we decided to give a bird a try. We knew of a bird market in Denpasar and, with the help of Ketut, our driver from the Ubud trip we went to the market in search a suitable bird. Ketut suggested a robin as a good start. The market was really interesting with lots of different birds, but often too many in a cage and some looking very poorly.

We looked around and soon came to a choice between a peach face or a robin. The girls decided to go for a robin. We then picked a bird that looked healthy, sang when called with a whistle and bargained the price. With our bird in a paper bag we then picked a cage. While fairly roughly made, the cages are really charming and have a very Asian style about them.

We named the bird Ketut after our driver (and every other fourth born son in Indonesia). At time of writing he has been with us three days now, and seems to be very content and each sunrise gives a few little songs that are nice but can be slept through if necessary.

 

With Ketut (the bird) safely in his new cage when then set off for food market. Liz wanted to get a large mortar and pestle and various ingredients for the items she learned to cook a the cooking class in Ubud. This was great, working our way through the narrow aisles in the the market hall. Having the Indonesian names made the process easy and quickly we had all the items, required.

With most fresh produce from a market it was all washed in salt water first before coming aboard to reduce the risk of cockroaches.



As most people know, Bali is mainly Hindu and everyday life is full of small and large religious practices. Temples are everywhere and all buildings have one or more shrines. Small offerings of flowers and incense are literally on every door way and entrance. Even in a Internet cafe in Ubud I found 2cm square leave trays with a little bit of rice inside at each computer. Every trip we made found us passing a procession of people decorated in their finest clothes, offerings on the women's heads, heading towards a temple or shrine.

One evening a ceremony occurred at the shrine at the corner of marina restaurant. Many of the staff arrived with their children all dressed up and set out a table in front of the already decorated shrine. People arrived with beautifully arranged baskets of fruits. We sat in the restaurant area and watched the proceedings. It was fairly light hearted but still undertaken seriously and was wonderful to watch this simple part of a truly rich culture.




In Courtney's schoolwork she was given a text called Families of the World. In it were descriptions of families from all over Asia and the Pacific, and a day in the life of these families when the author had visited 14 years ago. In the book was a family from Denpasar, Bali. They were a royal family and lived in a palace, with an adjoining hotel which they run. Courtney had to write up an imaginary day with one of the members of the family. We worked out where they lived and went to see the hotel and maybe the palace. We walked into the hotel and a man welcomed us and said to 'have a look around'. We did and Courtney was excited to see the red parrot Beo, described in the text in a cage in the grounds. After walking round we went back to explain to the man why we had come there. He had left, and one of the staff told us that he was one of the family in the book and that the next day his sister was getting married. The staff-member said we should come to watch. Courtney wanted to buy kebaya and a sarong, and now she had a good reason, as we were told to wear 'appropriate clothes'. Anna already had her 'Indonesian boy' outfit we

bought in Ubud.



So the next day we arrived at 7:30am and waited for the start. We were made very welcome and were met by the same man again and his father showed us around the palace grounds. At first we thought it strange for us to be given front row seats. As the day progressed we realised were amongst the 'well wishers', the main ceremony was in the palace grounds and we basically saw everyone coming and going. It was fascinating watching people arriving as they were all impeccably dressed and all seemed very happy about being there.

A large number of people came in and sat down quickly followed by the groom and his entourage who headed into a pavilion. After a while the bride and groom appeared and,followed by everyone, left the hotel/palace buildings. We later realised a procession back to the grooms house, with the bride & groom being carried aloft in medieval style chair, was occurring . We followed and saw the chair and waiting crowd assembled at the grooms house. Many hours had passed and heat had gotten to us so we took the girls to Mcdonalds for lunch for being so well behaved and patient. A not so typical day, definitely.

Over the next few days some shopping was done to restock the frig. Mainly a supply of cryo-vacummed frozen meat, mainly chicken and pork and fruit and vegetables. We first backed out of the mooring and went into a berth for two days to collect water and fuel. This also gave the girls to watch some videos as we currently have a dead inverter, so no TV or Video.

We left the marina and headed for Lembongan Island in the Lombok Strait. It felt good to move away, although the motor felt sluggish. A combination of barnacles on the propeller and a fierce current. First it was the tide coming into Benoa harbour and then, once out into strait a strong current between the islands - going at four knots the wrong way (for us!) doing a boat speed through the water of around seven knots gave us a speed forward of two-three knots. Making the fourteen miles take four to five hours. Still it was a nice day and no problems so a good initial trip after all that time sitting in one spot.


Photo slideshow





Thursday, March 20, 2003

March 2003 A short stay in Ubud, Bali


Once we started to get the boat together and we were confident we could cast off without too much hassle, we had a trip inland to see some sights. We organised a driver to take us up to Ubud and we stayed in a cheap room for four nights before returning. While still a very tourist dominated town, Ubud is much less chaotic than Kuta or Denpassar, and worth the time to enjoy the place.
On the way up we stopped at Goa Gajah, the Elephant Cave temple, as most people do. The temples are fascinating as they are not just relics from a bygone time, but still worshipped in everyday life.

All photos taken in Ubud
On the first night we had dinner at a little restaurant, Ayu's Kitchen, in Monkey Forest Road, and then Courtney & Liz went to see a Legong dance at Ubud Palace. Anna & I were too tired and went home to bed.

Our days at Ubud consisted of school work in the mornings, and then an outing in the afternoon on most days. One trip took us to the Neka Art Gallery and we saw the inspiration of all the artwork in the shops around town. Other days we wandered the markets looking at the huge array of things to buy.


The last day in Ubud saw Liz off to the Casa Luna Cooking School. She came back very happy with the day and a cookbook, apron and a mission to produce Balinese food. The girls went to a Batik class with a local artist I Nyoman Suradnya, who is a lovely patient man who guided the girls through the process of creating their own piece of Batik. 

In the afternoon we went to Pondok Pendak Library & Resources Centre and watched local kids practicing their dances and spoke to an American volunteer helping to run the library. We made a gift of excess books the girls had outgrown.Our last night in Ubud saw us off to see wayang kulit, a shadow puppet play. While sometimes the language was a barrier, it was still very much a 'good vs evil' show and the shadow effect on the elaborately carved puppets was wonderful.


the CD Version of the web site has a movie of Balinese kids at dance lessons and the Shadow puppets 

On the trip back, we detoured to visit Mount Batur, with it's spectacular views. On the way we stopped at the small town of Tampaksiring to see Gunung Kawi, a temple with large carvings in the mountainside and Tirta Empul, a water temple. There we went for a lovely walk through the rice fields to see a not so spectacular waterfall. But the walk was worth it.



We had lunch in a very touristy restaurant on the greater crater rim and enjoyed the spectacular view. After lunch we headed down the mountains and stopped at some beautiful rice terraces around the village Garuda, which is named after and produces statutes of the mythical bird-creature, the symbol of modern Indonesia. This again was well visited and we were swamped a bit with hawkers as we got out of the car. 




We got back to the boat and then appreciated the cooler mountain climate. Back to schoolwork and jobs.