June 2003 Up the east coast of Malaysia - continued

Photo SlideShow

Tioman Island
After three weeks we finally reached our first milestone of an east coast cruise - Tioman Island. This is a large island with several kampongs (villages) and several anchoring options. Many people come here for holidays and there is a variety of accommodating here. We needed a few supplies and hopefully beer at a reasonable price.

We sailed across from Sembilang/Sribuat islands and anchored in Tekek bay. We mucked about anchoring as it was deep (14metres) and shoaled to reef very quickly. Once satisfied we went ashore and were please to find small supermarket which had what we needed and not much difference in price compared to the large supermarkets in JB. Tioman is a duty-free island for beer and cigarettes. We picked up a case of Carlsberg cans for RM50 (A$22) which was much better than RM106 in JB.

That night we had clouds build up over the island which looked ominous. Later that evening after some rain the wind picked up and shifted suddenly. Feeling the boat slew Liz and I got up to check all was OK. Don's full keel ketch Valor was laying abeam (side-on) to the wind in front of us. Liz shouted that he was dragging and by the time I'd walked to the bow it was clear he was going to clean us up. I shouted out to raise him and he popped up from the other side of the boat, having just returned in his dinghy from dinner on Katrine.

As the boats came to touch Liz and I jammed fenders between and Don got his motor going. The boat slowly crabbed over the top of us and I held my breath as the stern went over our anchor chain. Don's boarding ladder jammed into the chain and smashed itself to bits. He then got clear of us and headed out to deep water to winch his anchor up. On the radio he then reported his dinghy was missing. We searched by spotlight that night and then along the shore in the morning but with no luck.

In the morning we only found the timber barge board along the gunnel of our boat chipped and no other damage. Valor sustained no damage except for the loss of the ladder and dinghy. In a way he was lucky to have come onto us as the reef was a only a short distance behind us.

The southerly wind blew up each afternoon and made the anchorage a bit uncomfortable so we moved a short distance north to anchor in Teluk Salang (Teluk is the Malay word for bay). This was not a lot better and crowded with fishing boats so we continued on right around the island to Juara Bay on the eastern side. We tucked in the southern corner and found it a bit rolly from the swell. We planned to stop a while so we went to the trouble of setting an anchor off the stern to hold the boat pointing out to sea with it's bow into the swell. This worked really well and we had a very comfortable two weeks here.



There are many small cabin style resorts with basic amenities up to air-conditioned units. These are relatively small and have a low visual impact making the bay look very picturesque. The Kampung (village) of Juara is well catered for with electricity, water, an excellent jetty with water and a concrete path running the length of the bay, which is effectively the main street..

   

In the corner of the beach there was a fresh water stream which was accessible in the dinghy at high tide. A few hundred metres upstream there was a small hydroelectric power station. The outfall of the power station became a daily destination as it was a great place to do laundry and have wash. The trip was very pretty with a large banyan tree overhanging and lots of wildlife. We saw many monitors and smaller lizards, macaques and kingfishers.

We saw some interesting groups come to stay. The resort closest to us had over a hundred Muslim clerics (we assume that's what they were) come for a three day stay. At each of the five prayer sessions they would gather in a room and chat and dance for about an hour. Quite an effort for three days. After they left we heard on the VHF radio an Australian accent calling "Warship Norman". Soon we saw several Naval vessels come in the bay and then they started coming ashore and unpacking gear. We learned that the Australian, NZ, Malay, British & Singaporean Navies we all together for annual exercises. Juara was the site for the dive/mine hunting teams. So for the next ten days they set up flags around the bay and did their stuff.

One night Liz noticed lots of their inflatable boats buzzing around. After retiring, she heard a motor close by and when she got up to investigate she saw a red light in the water underneath the boat. The divers surfaced and held on to our dinghy and said "It's OK we're just doing exercises". They were Australian as it turned out. The next day while ashore a senior officer came up and apologised. While there was no harm done and with so many of them in the bay it was clear who they were, the situation would have been quite different if we had just arrived and were unaware of the exercises. Being robbed at night by someone boarding the boat is a real concern for cruising yachts and many carry weapons.

 

Tulai Island and on to Kuantan
Over the next few days the military things started to wind down and we started to think about moving on. Liz and the girls walked over the island and I sailed the boat round to Tekek to meet them. While they enjoyed their walk and the motor bike ride up the path on the eastern side, they weren't so impressed about the torrential rain they. Meanwhile, on the boat I had a quiet relaxing trip around in sunshine.

Katrine was there and another yacht named Namir. Namir is from Keri Keri, NZ and has Bob, Joanie, Lisa (11) and Ryan (16) aboard. They were making their way south after going up to Koh Samui. Lisa and the girls got on well and we had her for a sleep-over and she sailed with us to Tulai island just five miles away. Tulai has excellent coral reefs and is as good as we've seen anywhere in Malaysia. We also enjoyed snorkeling in the mangroves at high tide, watching the mangrove jack swim in and out of the tree roots. Quite a different experience.

The next day Namir left and we had another day at Tulai but always with an eye on the sky as the anchorage is not great. Sure enough the next morning we had gray skies and the squalls started to come in. After an hour or two of squalls we decided to 'bug out'. Destination unknown. The girls asked Liz and I where we were going to go to and we truthfully admitted we didn't know. We ran north with over 20 knots of southerly behind us with just the headsail. If the wind stayed up we'd just run with it and continue north. Not long before dark the wind eased and the main went up. The boat was trimming along smoothly now and we decided to reach across to Kuantan on the mainland.

We anchored at 3:00am in an open bay just north of the Kuantan river and had rolly sleep. Next morning, with a rising tide we went into the river. Our 'mud map' - a sketch passed down from yacht to yacht, told us to go the wrong way around a port marker. We also had been told the the larger 'C' class fishing boats (they have a big C painted on the side, draw enough water to stay in the main channel so we followed them in. Luckily we saw that the channel had changed and we followed them several hundred metres to port of the marker. Liz updated the sketch accordingly.

We spent several days at Kuantan and enjoyed the calmness of being anchored in a river. To get ashore we had a long trip in the dinghy up to a public ferry jetty. This put as at the bus station and pretty well in the middle of the city. The main mosque is the big landmark and the soft blue/gray colours make a stunning sight. After checking out the shopping malls and wandering the streets, and collecting some supplies of food we moved on further up the coast.

 

Chukai
A 35 mile trip along the coast brought us to Chukai, once again on a river. This entrance was simpler as there were leading marks which proved to be correct. The main settlement is about a mile up the river. Surrounded by forest the river had many eagles soaring over it and we could see the branches swing with monkeys in the forest. We anchored just off a park and were only metres from the middle of the town. We stayed just the night and moved on.

The next day's sail was very pleasant. We had light southerly winds and sailed all day. The coast line seemed to be one long beach broken occasionally by a headland. At one point we passed a huge a refinery complex with burn off chimneys blazing and a large tanker on a mooring close to the shore. The chart showed a large oil/gas field offshore and many submarine pipelines feeding in. Much of Malaysia's wealth comes from oil revenue.

Kapas Island
60 miles up from Chukai was Kapas Island. Our dream sail with steady winds all day changed with the onset of an afternoon storm. The island wasn't too far so we dropped our sails and motored the last few miles into the blackening sky. The storm had passed over as we arrived and, in the dark, we spotted some boats moored and picked a spot just out side of them. Next morning we moved up to the northern end of the island and found beautiful bay formed by Kapas island and a smaller island nearby. This bay was deserted and girls enjoyed taking the dinghy ashore to play on the beach.

This is a very popular island for the residents of Kuala Terrenganu. We found camping grounds here and small resorts. This was the first place we've seen Malaysians camping. We watched a youth group of boys and girls erecting tents on the beach which reminded us al lot a school camp we went on with the girl's school in Brisbane.

Kuala Terengganu
Kuala Terengganu is the capital of Terengganu state and is set on a river - so we could go there! The entrance was straightforward and we anchored just inside river entrance. We found a really great market with a football field sized fruit/vege/fish market and upstairs narrow crowded crafts/clothes shops going everywhere. The Chinatown area was fun to explore and Liz found some pork meat and other Chinese supplies.

We went to the state museum which was very impressive. The buildings are large concrete structures built in the style of traditional buildings with large reliefs and ornate gables, all set around large beautifully kept gardens. Inside we saw displays on textiles, dress, music, jewelry and of course, a history of the local sultans. Sponsored by Petronas, the state oil company, there was a large building dedicated to how beneficial the oil industry is.

A visit to the ports officer confirmed that we didn't need to clear Malaysia here but at the border town of Pengkalan Kubur

 

Redang Island
From Kuala Terenganu we had a long sail/motor to Redang island. We'd set out early and arrived in the north east bay just before dark. The bay was very deep in shape and high hills provided good protection. Which was why there were so many fishing boats in the bay. They raft up together and then run a line back and another group raft up. We counted eleven rafted alongside each other.

That night a squall blew up and with thundering rain, the wind bulleted down really hard and from different directions. We held our ground OK and luckily the fishing boats did as well.

There are two beaches of fine white sand on the shore. One is the site of a large high class resort. Going ashore the girls eyed the swimming pools and the next day they played 'resort guests' for the day, lounging in and around the poolfront.



Perhentian Islands

We sailed across the twenty miles from Redang Island with the big event being we caught a fish! A lovely big spanish mackerel. We were technically inside the marine reserve area when we picked it up. Once we anchored a large police boat anchored nearby and they started fishing off the back. So much for the no-fishing rule.

The police boat was at least 30 metres long and one night we had a squall come up and the police boat dragged past us and only was metres from the reef when they rapidly reversed away. We suspect they were having trouble getting their anchor up.

We found the snorkeling excellent, with very clear water and lots of large plate coral formations and many more fish than we've seen elsewhere. There lots of restaurants and chalets ashore and most have a dive shop as well. A dive with gear costs 70 ringgit (A$30).

There are two islands here and we were are in a bay within the channel between the two islands. With beautiful white sand beaches and rocky outcrops on the points of the bay it is a very picturesque place.

At one of the dive shops Liz met a British family on a working holiday. They had a seven year old boy, Jack, who enjoyed playing with the kids. One day he turned up at the boat with his schoolwork. He was cagey when we asked if his Mum & Dad knew where he was but assured us everything was OK. Later that day his mum, Noeline, turned up and told us that he'd told the staff in the dive shop where he was going and hitched a ride on a boat out for the visit. Still, he got a fair bit of work done.

 

Kota Baru
We left Perhentian,sailed to the coast and anchored off the beach. The river was too shallow to enter so this was the only way to visit Kota Baru. We went ashore, found a bus into town and found what the girls described as Nirvana. A McDonalds with and Internet cafe inside it. Of course it was called McCyber's.

Kota Baru is considered the centre for Malay culture and also has a more strict Islamic regime. The cultural centre holds regular concerts and we enjoyed hearing the different instruments. The singing however was another thing and after a couple of songs we slipped out.

A storm had gone through while we were ashore, and on return to the beach the sound of the surf was ominous. We prepared for the launch... a quick jump in, row like mad while the motor is prepared for a start. It all went well until the top of a wave just got us and threw a bucket of water over the motor. Continue rowing like mad. We were away! But a second break was still to be crossed. Success but substantially wetter.

At the boat we found our home tossing around madly. Getting aboard was a matter of timing.... Wait for the gunnel to come down. Step on and zoom... up you go! That night was the worst night's sleep we've ever had. The boat tossed and rolled irregularly, with the waves and a swell rebounding off the beach. The dinghy got covered in anti-fouling painting as the boat rolled and the the dinghy wiped against the exposed bottom.

The next day was gray and threatening. We motored up towards the next harbour at Tumpat. As we approached it the wind intensified and the idea of risking entry into the harbour which was very shallow (three metres on the chart) was not appealing.

So, tired and exasperated, we turned round and ran downwind the thirty miles back to Perhentian. The strong winds (20-25 knots) were fine as tail winds and the sail back went well. This turned out fruitful as we anchored at Long Beach on the larger of the pair of Perhentian islands. This is a backpacker hangout and there we met Jim off the yacht Remington who had lots of information on the coast north to Koh Samui.

Time for a new web page that takes us to Thailand.

June 2003 Up the east coast of Malaysia

Photo SlideShow
We headed back down the Johor Strait from Johor Bahru and rounded Singapore island. There is a seriously large amount of shipping plying these waters and our boat seemed very small as we made our way along the edge of the shipping lanes. We had no dramas but it was an exhausting day keeping track of where each ship was going.

   

The Seribuat Archipelago 
After clearing Singapore we hoped to anchor for then night at some small islands just on the 'corner' of the Malay peninsular. As we approached we realised it was no good with far too much swell to have any hope of sleeping during the night. So we pushed on, somewhat reluctantly but with no other choice. An overnight run would get us to Palau (island in Malay) Sibu. We had 10-15 knots of wind and running downwind in the lumpy swell was no good so we reached out a long way and then reached back in. This is a good strategy to get a more comfortable ride and so what if it takes a bit longer.

Sibu Island

We anchored out wide just before dark and then after breakfast went to the northern tip and found a beautiful calm bay to anchor in. There is a small resort here (Rimbu Resort) and we found the people there very welcoming. The girls were so pleased to be able to go swimming again - all of us were really. Later on in the day two yachts came into the bay and anchored. Mike & Sylvia off the sloop 'Kai Viti', and Don off the ketch 'Valor'. They had spent the last four months in Sebana Cove Marina near Singapore and were planning to do the same trip as us. Mike & Sylvia used to be TAFE teachers (I worked for TAFE NSW for nine years). During our stay the girls found some kids staying at the resort to play with and we enjoyed the adult company of the resort guests and the other yachts.
 

There are tracks from the resort to the other beaches/resorts on the islands. We went for a walk and a swim to the eastern side and had a very pleasant walk through the bush and a swim in the small surf.

Tinggi Island
From here we moved across to the nearby island of Palau Tinggi. This translates to 'tall island' and is dominated by an extinct volcanic cone. We anchored in the southwest corner. Here there was a school and other official buildings. The main reason for the village's existence must be the school as it was the vacation period and the place was almost a ghost town. Still it was nice to wander round and have a look about. There were no cars and two concrete paths made up the street network. Pot plants were everywhere, which gave the place a distinct style.

The weather pattern we encountered was the usual steady southerly wind and a swell coming from the west. The trouble to find a good anchorage was to get out of the wind and the swell. At this anchorage we were open to the wind which was OK as the reef cut down the wave action, although as the tide changed we'd lay sideways to the wind/waves which was a bit unpleasant but tolerable.

The next anchorage was at the northern tip of Palau Tinggi with the hope of a calm bay like Sibu Island. We came into the bay and found a large rocky shoreline and, feeling a bit threatened by the 'hard edge' of the water', anchored out wide. The shoreline rose to meet to the volcanic peak of the island, giving a spectacular look to the anchorage, but.... While the wind was blowing we felt comfortable but that night in the calmer conditions we rolled around and no scenery could offset the lack of sleep from tossing about.


Tossing about when you're at sea is taken for granted - the price to travel this way, but tossing about when you're stopped is not on!

Babi Besar Island
We moved on to Palau Babi Besar Island. This had a lovely long sandy beach on the western side but the risk was we were open to the wind - but the beach looked very inviting. Going ashore we found several resorts along the now familial concrete path/street. The two up-market ones had signs stating they were closed to the public. The reason was they were booked out entirely by a Swedish film crew who were filming a 'Survivor' style series. The people hanging around the resort were quite unfriendly and had that "I'm at work therefore I am not enjoying this look" - even while in the pool with a beer in hand! There were several elaborate sets on the beach. The participants were 'stored' on another island and were brought in to complete their tasks.
 

Apart from the Swedes jogging around the island was very quiet with only noise being cows mooing as they roamed free. . We enjoyed a beer here and there and had a reasonable hamburger for dinner one night. We stayed three nights and although not the smoothest of anchorage the girls really loved the beach. A catamaran named "Katrine" came in and we all met Don and Jean while having a long chat aboard their very nice boat. They are South African and do some charter work and we hope we see more of this nice couple.

Leaving Babi Besar we all went separate ways. Katrine headed to Endau on the mainland to find a place to go to collect a charter group coming in a few weeks and Valour and KaiViti headed to Tioman as Mike had an ongoing ear problem that needed looking at. We just headed to the next anchorage. We ran across to Palau Rawa which looked very similar to Babi Besar, anchorage wise as it faced west and was open to the southerly wind. Resorts filled the beach so we decided to search on for somewhere less populated. Following the small chain of islets north of Rawa we saw only one possible anchorage which had tents erected on the shore. This was no doubt the 'Survivor' island so we moved further north.

Sembilang and Sribuat Islands
Our cruising notes described the next pair of islands with just these three words: 'very protected, fantastic'. No need for depths, waypoints, type of bottom or other directions. We stayed just over a week in the northern bay formed by a reef joining Sembilang and Sribuat Islands.

And it was very protected and indeed fantastic. We had no swell from the west and the wind blew strong over the deck off the reef pushing lots of fresh air through our wind scoop and into the boat. We found the snorkelling good and a long put off job of painting the deck got started. Katrine came in and stayed for a few days and we enjoyed a lovely tropical BBQ and fire on the small beach formed by a little cove in the rocks.

After a great week of 'true cruising just like in the brochure' we moved on to Tioman Island.

Photo SlideShow