Water, water everywhere

The last 12 hours have been a bit of an ordeal but finished with lots of water. The seas have calmed and rain set in, so the bucket with pump/filter is in position at the deck drain outlet and our tanks are now full and the girls are out washing/playing in the water.

Last night around midnight a big squall came over and blew 25-30 knots from the NW, which is opposite to all the other weather we've had on this trip. We laid hove-to to wait and see what was going to happen next, but after 30 minutes a 20 knot NW wind continued. Well this was pretty good news, so we set our sails to run downwind and had 4-5 hours of good boat speed with the boat sailing flat, as opposed to the last nine days of heeled over.

All good things come to an end and the wind died at dawn and the resultant sea was horrible! The NW had built up a metre sea and once the wind dropped away the Southerly swell gave a real washing machine action with peaks of water bouncing vertically a few metres. The boat just bounced and jarred and bobbed. Sail pumped and banged. Bugger this - on with the motor and try to get some stability. The sea started to settle after an hour and just when things were brightening the temperature alarm went
off. Luckily it settled down more while the engine covers came off and some breakfast was had. A smaller NW squall came through and allowed a steady sailing boat while I found the worn fan belt that caused the overheating and replaced it.

We are now on our way to a resort just off the tip of Irian Jaya, called Sorido. Ian and Robyn off Reeflections II told me how they worked for Wick at the town of Sorong and put us in contact. After initially planning to stop in Sorong, Wick suggested that we go to this resort and his crew would pick some supplies and meet us there as they were heading on a regular run there tomorrow (Sunday). Avoiding town and authorities is advisable for us as we don't have a cruising permit.

The heavy rain and grey skies mean we probably won't go in there today but tomorrow we hope to be at anchor. We are all intensely interested to see what there is at this dive resort, located so remotely.

The weather cleared enough for us to see shallows off the island so we snuck in and anchored, but not very soundly on a coral bottom. Hopefully we'll be OK but will need to maintain a watch on our position. Feels very nice to be still after 10 days on the move.

Molucca Sea is on the nose

Thursday 2nd Aug 8pm
Well the wind is. We passed between Halmahera Island and Morotai Island yesterday morning. It was nice to run between the two islands in relative calm. Took the opportunity to top up the fuel tank with the fuel containers we carry. 130 litres took us back to a fuel tank. We considered going ashore to get more fuel but the township/port wasn't obvious so we continued. We sailed on in variable winds and calm seas in the lee of the island.

Today the wind built quickly to 15-20 knots from the south and we have been punching into the wind as we do our best to head south east. We found our log, an impeller that measures boat speed, is leaking. The fitting has popped up when we've pounded hard. It pushes back down and seals OK but won't screw up any tighter as if an seal is missing. The blank does the same. Something to watch and try to fix when a calm spot emerges in daylight hours.

Today Courtney made cheesecake! A packet mix but still very nice. Three of the crew have now read the new Harry Potter book and now wait for Liz to finish books six, then seven, so conversations about can go on without being spoilers

Very little to see around us. We are out of sight of land again and virtually no fishing boats and haven't seen any large ships. Mary and Warren on Arawana made it to Manado in Suluwesi today. It's nice to talk to them each morning.

Now covered just over a 1000 of the 1800 miles to Gove.

Now too much wind in the Molucca Sea

As we passed the Sanghie Islands yesterday morning, we continued on the same course towards Halmahera and Morotai Islands. Steadily the wind picked up from the SSE, and we started to rocket along at 7+ knots, but diving into waves with lots of water on the deck. We reefed down and rolled up the headsail in favour of the cutter (smaller inner headsail) and conditions aboard were still lousy but the best conditions were going to allow.

So along we went with everyone feeling a bit under the weather. We hove-to for an hour before dark to have dinner and then batted on during night. While Liz was on watch I felt the hard bang of a solid wave hitting us then the rushing sound of water and then a "oh-no, you rotten...." the wave had kicked up a few buckets over the cockpit covers and poured in on the downwind side of the cockpit where she was sitting. It's a really horrible sensation to be brought out of the night watch daze with a
bucket of sea-water over your head.

This morning it's a little lighter at 15-17 knots and we are 50 miles from Morotai where we may stop and try to top up our fuel.

a good 24hrs with wind and a milestone passed

At 8:am yesterday I turned the motor off in light breeze after noticing the current had abated. The day panned out well with us drifting along at 2-4 knots for most of the day, and in the afternoon and most of the night the southerly lifted to 10-15 knots and we made some good time. We turned in a 100 mile day with the motor.

Quiet day aboard with the usual reading, computer usage, games of chess and sleeping.

The midnight muffin maker (Liz) struck, and the boat has the lovely smell of fresh baking now.

This morning we passed through the Sangihe Islands and have now left the Celebes Sea and are now entering the Molucca Sea. The islands were very steep, rising up from a 3000 metre seabed and seem to continue up. One in the distance had the classic volcano shape and the nearby island was shrouded in cloud with its own personal lightning show going on inside.

A day and a half should see us at Halmahera, where we start to head south.

Hope to catch a fish today. Had the line out yesterday with no luck. New sea, new day..

Currents against us.

Very frustrating scene on board as there are light winds that we could glide along at 3 knots but the current is pushing us back and south at around 2knots so one knot forward is the result. No good. Motor on.

Haven't seen anything today, except for a light in the distance during the night. We are 100 miles from the islands which reach north from Suluwesi, so I expect to see some more fishing activity soon. Had our line out yesterday but no luck.

Everyone is well on board but am hearing the word 'bored' fairly regularly.

Day 4 dawns in the Celebes Sea

Nice and calm this morning and over the last six hours we've been just about becalmed. The sea is now flat and has settled after the lousy conditions yesterday.

Day 2 was OK with a squall kicking up early in the morning but it didn't last too long and replaced itself with some southerly winds that we tacked into to go down through the Sibutu passage. The passage separates some Indonesian and Malay islands and is a smuggling route. We were told to hold to the Malay side but we split the difference as we tacked down. We were overflown by a business jet type of plane which I assume was a surveillance aircraft. Later in the evening Liz spotted two very fast
boats with green lights which we again assume was some kind of border patrol. With talk of pirates, the girls were most dissappointed when we came across no Johnny Depps or Orlando Blooms. Almost through the passage, and around midnight a squall come through with more teeth and we had 15-25 knots which were able to reach across into the Celebes Sea. It held and we had a fast but rolly ride all night.

Day 3 started with the same southerly wind easing a bit and giving us a lumpy ride. During the day we saw several pods of whales. One pair were a few hundred metres away and could see they were small (3 metres?) with blunt noses. Liz and the girls have been laying low with various level of discolour,but all jumped up on deck with the call of "thar she blows!".

Later in the day a really nasty squall hit with 30 knots sustained for a few hours. Again a good burst of speed with the boat racing along but uncomfortable in the lumpy conditions. As the wind eased in the afternoon the sea was just bloody horrible. I (Colin) seemed to spend the last two days, furling and reefing, unfurling and unreefing sails or collapsing into a short nap. Definitely not the the "gin and tonic at Sunset, end of the bargain".

So last night the calm conditions and no speed was OK as the restful nature of the motion was most appreciated.

Have a few problems aboard withhe the main alternator not putting out much current, the engine alternator is going OK so no drama there. We have small tear in our headsail which we taped up last night but this morning the tape has lifted so will need to give it another go. Our gearbox may have an oil leak, possibly from the cooler, but it's not bad and I have lots of oil for it.

The girls are going along OK, each vying for computer time to play the "Sims", read Fan Fictions, write stories and watch movies. Liz has had the worst of the sea sickness but a calmer day today would help her.

I have had trouble getting email out but this morning was able to access another "radio mailbox" in South Australia which worked well.

Please send a short comment so we can have some news of the outside world.

First night out of Sandakan

A little bit later than planned but we are now on our way. Courtney and Liz went up to the Kinabatagan River for a night in the Jungle Camp and enjoyed the beauty of the place and the river cruises to spot the wildlife. Sandakan Yacht Club was extremely friendly. Usual nice staff and all the different board members made a point to introduce themselves and often bought rounds of drinks for us.

And we had the company of another boat. Arawana, with Warren and Mary aboard who are also heading into Indonesia with a final destination of Darwin. We won't cross paths but will endeavour to keep in touch on the radio.

So with the boat full of food, fuel and water, we said our goodbye's to customs, immigration and the ports office, and left Sandakan behind at 3:30pm. The first few hours saw a steady sea breeze and had Reflections IV gliding along at six knots in a flat sea. Around midnight a series of squalls are passing over. Lots of rain and short bursts of 20 knots.

In and out with the headsail as the squalls went through til 1am when it calmed off with only a knot or two of forward motion. Early morning and light SW are keeping us around 4-5 knots. Very comfortable sailing. Have a favourable current of a knot and hope that will accelerate as we get closer to the Sibutu Passage.