April 2003 - Lembongan Island - Lombok Strait

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After pushing against four knots of current all the twelve miles from Benoa harbour, we arrived at Lembongan Island. No need for us to anchor here as there are many moorings, owned by cruise operators who run day trips from Bali. We expected to have to move around from mooring to mooring, but as it turned out we only moved once in the week we spent here. Being able to jump in for a swim when we pleased was wonderful and the snorkeling was quite good only a hundred metres away. The water was refreshingly clear and clean after the habour at Benoa.

The cruise operators have two huge entertainment pontoons for the visitors to hang out on. They are ugly looking things, but do supply shade, a shower and apparently a restaurant. They even have waterslides. Before the tourism collapse this place would be chaotic during the day with water skiing, jet skis and all the other 'value adding' that goes on at tourist destinations. Luckily for the locals they are not totally dependent on tourism, as they make a reasonable living cultivating seaweed from racks which cover much of the lagoon formed by the fringing reef.

There are a number of up-market hotels on the island, away from the village. And a dozen or so bungalows along the water front. Behind the waterfront runs one long narrow street which pretty well makes up the town. No cars and only a few motor bikes makes for a peaceful place to stroll and explore. The surf is good here so many surfers know this place. Liz went for a drift dive in the passage behind the island and also at Toyapakeh, with large coral gardens. Her account was of a good dive and feeling happy with her day.

We had a few meals ashore at the different places and enjoyed the stunning sunsets each night, and the views of the Bali mainland with the largest mountain Gunung Agung showing itself through clouds occasionally. Schoolwork carried on, and we tried our best to fall into our old routine again.i

Over the weeks before, much mention was made how April 2nd was a 'total shut down day'. Nothing would be open as this was something like the start of the Hindu new year (we think!). Not until we reached Lembongan and spoke to some of the locals did we find out that there would be a large celebration the night before. In the street we saw large floats with large Hindu figures on them being prepared.



So that evening we went ashore and first went to the temple where virtually the whole town was assembled. The streets surrounding the temple where crowded with men knelt down, with the women assembled at a nearby pavillion. Everyone dressed in their finest - quite a sight. After the ceremony the town was purged of the old spirits by everyone going along back to their houses with flame torches and banging bamboo poles to chase at the old spirits. We were at a restaurant when the staff arrived back and we watched this ceremony work it's way through the grounds of the bungalows and restaurant. Then, along the waterfront a large group made their way along carrying torches and sticks making a racket and clearing the bay of the old spirits.



After drinks and a snack we went out into the street to watch the celebrations. There were three floats each constructed by different parts of the town, north south and east. The floats are carried by the young men representing their area, and they do their best to make the figures look as real as possible by lifting, swinging and rocking the floats to make the figures look fantastic. The town suffered a blackout (arranged or not, we don't know) and the figures with their lit eyes and torch carrying leaders made an unforgettable sight.

For those with the CD version here are movies of the street outside the temple, the beach being cleared and one of the figures making their way down the street.



After seeing the last float we went for something to eat and then made our way back. Anna was absolutely exhausted from the long night standing and watching, with the rest of the family not far behind her. This was a memorable night and having a quiet day and respecting the instructions on staying inside and no noise or activity wasn't hard to adhere to.

That night the wind got up as predicted and we felt the boat strain a bit on the mooring but hold well. It was the first time we had to get up and check things on a regular basis. Another of the routines to get back into. The next day was cooler and overcast which made staying inside easy enough. A good amount of schoolwork was acheived. In the evening we looked out and found the whole island black. The power had been turned off and this helped to enforce the no-activity rule.

We then headed back to Benoa, and had quite a lumpy trip with the wind blowing fairly hard but right in the direction we wanted to go. So once again the motor went on but this time the current was with us and we back in the harbour in a few hours.

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