May 2003 - Kalimantan to Malaysia

Photo Slide Show

We took our time leaving Kumai, Kalimatan. We enjoyed being at anchor in the river and saw no hurry to get going. There had been lots of rain squalls but no wind to feel on our face or see on the forecasts so what was the rush if we had to motor. We knew when we planned our return to the boat we would be in the transition months and likelihood for wind was low.

The girls were on school holidays so it there was time for some craft and even the Easter Bunny found us, leaving the usual messy footprints all over the boat. We cleared Immigration here so we would 'between countries' and didn't need to rush to get to the last port in Indonesia before our visa ran out. Instead we could stop a bit along the way but only where there were no officials.
 
Elizabeth enjoyed the challenge of going to the market to bargain and stock up on a few fresh things. After that we lifted our muddy anchor and set off. Luckily the rain squalls that built up as we left went around us as we headed down the river and found our way out into the open sea.
 

 A good watch whenever your going along is important, but here with so many fishing boats and nets around it's essential. Mind youu the likelihood of falling asleep on watch is low, as we always seemed to be tracking something. To add interest there are huge barges of logs towed by tugs as well. It sounds worse than it is, as the fishing boats seemed to cluster on the shallower banks and we'd take a path that goes around the whole fleet. During the day we crossed over a shallow bank (around 9 metres) and found ourselves surrounded by fishing nets. We cut the motor and sailed (at one knot) through them til we returned to deeper waters. The lesson here is obvious - stay in the deep end of the pool!.



The first stop was at Serutu Island which was 44 hours after we left Kumai and apart from an hour or so it was motoring all the way. There were lots of rain squalls which gave us lift (we have the mainsail up all the time and put the headsail out when possible). Serutu Island is marked on the chart as a flora and fauna reserve and apart from some huts on the shore as we went along the coast we only saw fisherman occasionally come into the bay.

This was a lovely stop and it was so good to be by ourselves, anchored in clear water and enjoying the 'basics' again - swimming and checking out the shoreline. Ashore there is a fresh water stream which made the stay 'luxury' as we could wash clothes and ourselves with lots of water. The girls loved playing in the cool little fresh water stream.
 

Our second last night was terrible with a nasty swell coming in and making the boat bob and toss like a little dinghy all night. Liz and I were up virtually all night. The last night was better and in the morning and started on a 260mile leg to Kentar Island. The wind was light and right behind us so we did our best to sail all day with the spinnaker up. Averaged three miles an hour but had a very comfortable, quiet day. A large spanish mackerel caugnt only hours after leaving meant there would be fresh fish on the menu for the trip.

We ended up with all kinds of weather. Light tail winds with the spinaker up, wind of the side (beam) and headwinds. We ended up sailing for most of the leg, and have done reasonable speed - 5-6 knots averaging. The second night saw a big rain storm come through and with lots of wind (I guess over 30 knots). We dropped our sails and waited 30minutes to see whether it was going to last, which it didn't. The rain so hard it was hard to tell if the motor was on or not! The wind died down as quick as it come.

This may be what they call a 'Sumatra' a short, incredibly strong wind, that comes from the direction of Sumatra.

 We crossed the equator in the afternoon just before arriving at Kentar Island. So now we are in the Northern Hemisphere, and it felt like quite a milestone had been reached. Anna was quick with the camera and caught a photo of it. Clever girl!
 
Kentar Island had many fishing huts built on stilts out over the water. They use bright lights and net the fish attracted to the lights. We were unsure as to whether they lived there but assumed they just came out during the night. We stayed for a day there to rest and caught up on some school work. It was just over a hundred miles to the Singapore Straits and day hops through the crowded islands was the strategy. Most yachts go a slightly different route here, as they usually have to clear immigration at Noongsa Point Marina. For us we took a route through Selat Combol and possibly avoided a lot of traffic as we saw very few ships.
 

After two overnight stops along the way, we sailed out into the Singapore Strait. It felt a bit like being on a bycycle on the side of freeway, hoping we wouldn't be cleaned up by a 'big truck' as we crossed. Our chart showed the shipping lanes and traffic directions. It actually turned out OK as the ships are spaced apart by the Singapore shipping authorities and we had ample to time to dip behind one ship before the next one came through. Still, not something you'd want to do everyday!

 
We headed up the western side of Johor strait which separates Malaysia and Singapore. The traffic here was just as bad with ships, both small and supertankers going in all directions. Once up into the river like strait we could relax a bit with the only tension being going under the bridge called the Second link. We stand 19 metres tall in the water and knew we'd clear the 25 metre span but it did look close from the deck.

It is 15 miles from the bridge to the causeway that links the two countries, and we anchored only a few hundred metres from it. It was quite a contrast from the fishing villages of Indonesia to the high rise of Singapore and Johor Baru. We were first dissapointed to find that our friends Peter & Flavia on Sampaguita weren't there but later elated when we heard them on the VHF radio. They, and three other yachts were at anchor on the other side of the causeway. They came over and showed us where to go to clear immigration. Basically we walked against the flow of traffic to where people coming across the causeway are processed, found the office and expained our situation. They were very interested in our travels and there was no hassle at all. Customs was a non event as we just walked past them and said we had nothing to declare.

Over dinner with Peter & Flavia, we heard lots of wonderful talk of Malaysia and Thailand. The south-westerly winds were due to start soon and they felt we should consider cruising the east coast of Malaysia for the next few months. Later we met the other yachts, Harmony 88, Muskat & Selkie and gathered more information on the east coast.

So at this stage we plan to head to Tioman Island from Johor Bahru and see what it it's like.

Getting to Singapore was a matter of hopping on the bus. The SARS outbreak was coming to an end and we had to complete forms stating we had no temperature or came from an affected country. Thermal imaging cameras checked our temperatures as we passed through the usual security checks. Singapore is Singapore. Clean, green, well ordered and trying hard to be perfect in everyway. We had a day out to go to the zoo but with one thing and another, we aborted and went into town. Our day out saw us wandering through a shopping mall completely dedicated to electronic gadgets, riding the MRT (subway) to find our mail and finally a trip to the Night Safari Zoo which was quite good and nice and cool.

We spent our days in Johor Bahru getting schoolwork done and finding more and more shopping centres. Singaporeans come and shop here so there are a large number of centres. We also found a rather run-down zoo which had lots of animals and only cost $3 for the family. Not up to Singapore standards but OK for a look around. We've eaten in the night market, small restaurants and of course the girls have had a few McHappy meals. One evening we went for a walk inside and around the Hindu temple. They are beautifully decorated and the various statues look great. Outside the streets are lined with stalls selling offering flowers and fruit. A great place to buy good bananas. As we left we watched this guy unload a sackful of coconuts. He then proceeded to smash them on the ground at the steps of the temple as an offering and invited the girls to smash of few for him.

One more thing about where we are anchored - it stinks! It's like being anchored in sewer sometimes. Need a clean anchorage to lift the spirits.

Another expedition to Singapore took us to the Jurong Bird Park. This was very impressive as it has huge walk in avaries and an amazing collection of birds. The 'shows' put on were a bit weak but the girls enjoyed it. There were few people there so Courtney volunteered (as usual) and was picked to participate in each show we saw. One lovely surprise was in the South East Asia aviary we saw birds the same as our bird, Ketut. We asked the staff lots of questions, finding out that he is a Pekin Robin, and we brought home a small supply of meal worms that Ketut really loved.

We stayed at Johor Bahru for over three weeks. It happens with cities and us. Just can't seem to move on. Still we emjoyed the stay but at the end we were desperate to get away and find some clean water and relative quiet.

So finally we headed back down the Johor Strait, rounded Singapore island and headed north up the east coast.

April 2003 Bali to Kalimantan

Photo Slide Show

We left Benoa and headed back across to Lembongan Island. This seemed a good idea to stage us for the overnight trip to Kangean Island. WRONG. A big brain dead on this one! We fought up to five knots of current and spent all afternoon going twelve miles. Then a shocking night rolling round on a mooring. Then we set out in the morning and found we were going nowhere. Motoring forward at six knots against six knots of current adds up to nothing!



 So we slewed across to the Bali mainland, and did what all fair minded sailors do, hug the shore and hope you miss the main current flow. We steadily went forward at a more respectable pace of 3-4 knots. An nice surprise was we caught a mackerel and enjoyed sashimi in the evening. The mountains of Bali really looked spectacular as we rounded the northeast cape. The local fishing fleets were heading out as we cleared the mainland so it was a constant job of ducking and weaving between the boats as we crossed paths. As the sun set, lots of Risso's dolphins put on a display

An interesting thing happened when we cut our motor to try to sail (to no avail). As we slowed and changed course, the fishing boats near us changed course and followed us and then approached quite closely. Curiosity I think. We just waved and resumed our original motoring course. They continued to follow us for quite a while before going back on their own courses.

The tension about sailing in these waters is high for cruising yachts. The talk of pirates and aggressive boats is in every magazine article and it is easy to construe every incident like we had as a 'close call'. I think the reality is they are just curious and mean no harm.
 

 So motor on we went, glassy conditions, and a constant stream of shipping to watch out for made the night pass. We arrived at Kangean Island in the morning and we anchored in the wide open bay. Not a lot to say about this place as we just had a night's rest and moved on. The village in the distance looked idyllic on the little island at the head of the bay but we never ventured ashore. A few boats out fishing called past and asked the usual questions. The next day we were determined to sail so we got the spinnaker out and set it up ready to catch any hint of a breeze. After four or five hours we found we'd gone sideways a mile but not an inch forward. We even went for a swim which was a first for us as we'd never gone swimming in the open sea before. A weird feeling but refreshing nonetheless.


We now had almost three days of almost continual motoring with one morning giving us a break. This is not the season to sail. Anyway, better no wind than too much. We saw a constant amount of shipping, so the watches needed to be alert. One thing was many of these boats were quite large but being wooden didn't always show up on radar but they were lit well. We approached the coast of Kalimantan around midnight on April 12 and made a cautious approach and anchored for the night in Kumai Bay before heading up into the river the next day, on a rising tide.

After pancakes for breakfast we up-anchored and headed up the river. It was a bit complicated coming in, but good information on what to expect made it OK, but still pretty stressful moving about in the shallow water of five odd metres. We travelled a few miles up the river to find the town and anchored opposite the town. Immediately a few boats came out to 'tout' their services to take us to see the orangutans. We had already decided that we'd go with Harry as virtually all the boats we knew had gone with him and were very happy.
 

Harry came aboard and gave us the run down on the tour options. At first we had planned to do a two-day trip like most of the yachts before us but ended up going for the three-day trip. We found out from Harry we could clear out of Indonesia here and with ten days left on our visa it would mean we could have a more leisurely stay in Kumai and take our time sailing to Singapore.

The rest of this page is a copy of content I used in making a website for Harry. It may sound very 'glowing' but the trip was as good as it sounds. Truly one of the great things we have experienced.

Harry took away copies of our paperwork and dealt with the various authorities for us.

 
 We needed to get some money so the next day Harry met us ashore and we caught a bemo together into the nearby larger town of Pangkalan Bun, 15 kms away. This town held ATM's and an Internet Cafe. We collected our money and then went for a fascinating walk down by the river front where a complete village exists on piles out over the river. It was great and worth the trip into Pangkalan Bun just to see this.


 After a nice lunch in a warung (small basic restaurant) and during lunch Harry showed how warm he was towards Anna. They played chinese checkers and UNO and the rest of the people in the warung looked on. An urgent trip to the toilet caused us to call in at the local fire station. So here is a picture for my mate Kim!
 

Next day was the start of the trip. We were packed as per Harry's list and a few extra treats. (Sweets for the kids, wine for the adults). The traditional river boat , Britannia, skippered by Jien and crewed by Jenne (both brothers of Harry) came alongside at 8:30am as arranged and the boat minder moved aboard Reflections IV.

We headed downstream and after a kilometre turned up into the Sekonyer river. The river was lined with huge clumps of nipa palms, and after a while they reduced and were replaced by pandanus. Harry pointed out that this was a sign the river was now predominately fresh water. Elizabeth called out 'Hornbill!' and immediately Jien stopped the boat and we all looked up to see a pair of hornbills flying off. This heightened everyone's attention and not long after two Rhinoceros Hornbills, perched in a tree, were observed by all of us before they flew off.

Maybe it was because we had three days to cover what most did in two days, but whenever something was spotted Jien would stop the boat, back up if necessary and waited til we were ready to move on. Slowly the river narrowed and we found we could lay down on the mattresses and pillows and look out and up into the forest canopy while relaxing in the shade. The only way to travel!

 It was Elizabeth's birthday and we had bought a small cake in town the day before. When coffee and tea was served the cake was produced only to be outdone by a much larger one made by Harry's sister, Arlie, complete with Happy Birthday Elizabet written in icing. When questioned on how he knew Harry replied - why your passport copies of course!

The Sekonyer river forms the western border of the national park and is the only transport route for the village communities along it. The loud motors of the open motorised canoes would be heard way in advance of the approaching canoe.


As we traveled further along the river we spotted many different birds including two types of hornbills, beautifully coloured kingfishers and eagles flying high above. Often Harry would say "listen" and we'd pick up a bird calling. He amazed us how he would then quote the local, English and often the Latin name of the bird. He seemed to be able to do this for every animal we came across.

Our first stop was out Tanjung Harapan, an orangutan sanctuary where three orangutans were in the process of rehabilitation. This involves their slow adjustment from their previous life with humans (as pets or rescued from logged areas) to life back in the wild. The process is to provide shelter in the form of a night/socialisation cage and food in morning and evenings. Then as the orangutans are felt to be ready, they are encouraged make nests in the trees and supplemental feeding is given at feeding platforms out in the forest. Orangutans that have been there longer take on surrogate mother roles to the newcomers and, although this is not natural habit in the wild, it seems to work.

Harry remarked that 200 orangutans had been reintroduced into the forest through the three sanctuaries in the park. With an estimated population of around 800 orangutans in the entire park this is a real success story.

We spoke to people at the sanctuary and they said they were sorry but the three orangutans were out in the forest and would not return until the late afternoon. This was a good sign from a rehabilitation point of view but obviously we were disappointed and we all started to wonder whether we would see many during the trip. We returned to the boat to find lunch prepared for us. This was a feature of how well organised Harry and his brothers were, as we often found a meal or a snack prepared for us after an activity.

Traveling on a yacht keeps you in control of many decisions, especially what you eat. So when lunch was served we were relieved when we saw what was to be provided. Clean, fresh and tasty Indonesian fare was the manner of the meals. A plate of potato chips and fried bananas were nice treats with many of the meals. There was always plenty of food.

 We set off again heading towards Pondok Tanggui, the second sanctuary which was about an hour away. Well this took a lot more than an hour, as we constantly stopped to watch Proboscis monkeys, Long-tailed Macaque, more birds and best of all we saw several orangutans in the wild.

We always expected to see orangutans at the sanctuaries, but to see truly wild orangutans in their natural habitat was such a thrill. Our timing (late April) meant that fruit was ripening on trees bordering the river and they were making themselves very visible as they fed near the river. Over the three days, from the river, we spotted 15 orangutans in the wild.

Courtney (11) and Anna (8) summed it up: "This is so cool!".

The boat came alongside the jetty at Pondok Tanggui and as we started to walk down the boardwalk to the buildings we started to see orangutans here, there and literally everywhere. This was great!

We made our way down to the feeding platform and saw that many of the orangutans behaved just like they were the children of the workers. We started to realise the challenges faced by the orangutans and the people working with them. It must be so hard to be detached and not to encourage contact as the orangutans always seemed to be after a hand to hold. A legacy of their previous experiences we suppose.

We sat at the feeding platform and watched the orangutans,as well as those that had walked with us, also those that had come down from the trees. We could see the pecking order with the large male having the upper hand and the other ones tentatively made their way forward as the large male moved off. This male was not a rehabilitated orangutan but had just decided to stake this territory out - maybe the free food was a deciding factor.
 
The CD version has a movie of the orangutans at Tondok Panggui, Agile gibbons and a large male orangutan at Camp Leakey, a wild orangutan seen from the river and orangutans at the feeding platform at Camp Leakey

We returned to boat and enjoyed a snack with tea & coffee and made our way a short way up the river and then turned up a tributary which would lead us to Camp Leakey. The water here was a deep black and dark and only just wide enough for the boat to make its way. In the evening light it was a beautiful sight. Harry explained how the Sekonyer river should be the same colour but it was polluted from upriver mining and palm-oil operations. This and many issues were explained to us as we went along. Harry talked and asked for our comments on methods to improve the life of the nearby communities and seemed genuine in his efforts to have sustainable development that produced improvements for the people through conserving the natural surroundings.

 We stopped for the night at a unused Proboscis Monkey research station. We had a near full moon and the forest canopy looked great under the moonlit sky. We woke in the morning with heavy rain and wondered if it would let up. Luck was with us and we were soon back to sunny skies.

We steadily made our way along towards Camp Leakey.

Camp Leakey is the best know of the sanctuaries and was founded and still run by Prof Birute Galdikas, a Canadian scientist who has run an ongoing study of orangutans here for twenty years. Leakey is named after Dr Louis Leakey the anthropologist who encouraged Prof Galdikas to come to study the unique Asian great ape, the orangutan which means 'person of the forest'. She was among three Dr Leakey sponsored. The other two were Jane Goodall, who studied chimpanzees for 30 years and Dian Fossey, of Gorillas in the Mist fame, who studied mountain gorillas.
   
We walked into the camp and saw many orangutans around us. We came to the office to sign the visitors book first, and noticed a huge male orangutan lounging on a seat and behind several agile gibbons zooming round. Agile is the perfect name for them and we watched for ages as they swung backward and forwards. They were also in the process of being rehabilitated back to the wild.

We went for a lovely cool walk in the rainforest to get to the feeding platform and saw the 'usual' beautiful array of trees, vines mosses and fungi. When we arrived at the platform a large male was feeding and the others were standing back. Once again showing the dominating role the large males play. Orangutans are normally solitary and the males hold a territory and then meet females as they pass through. The young stay with their mothers for up to eight years.
 
 

  Back at the boat we had lunch and a wash. There is a shower on the back of the boat but it was more fun to get buckets of water and pour them over you to keep the heat at bay. Several of the orangutans came down to the boat to investigate us and even after seeing so many it was fascinating watching them.

After a longer walk around the forest to get some needed exercise, we headed downstream and anchored amongst the panadus off the main tributary. Once again a glorious evening under a full moon. After a breakfast of banana pancakes we made our way back down the tributary and saw so many monkeys we lost count. One group of proboscis monkeys leaped across the water from one side to the other only a few metres in front of us!
 
  Our last day was spent visiting the two sanctuaries on the Sekonyer again, taking a long walk (in the rain!) at Pondok Tanggui, and stopping all the time to see more wild orangutans, monkeys and birds. We came to the bottom reaches of the Sekonyer just after dark and started to see fireflies in the trees. Harry was dissapointed for us as the full moon and rain had reduced their numbers. "Normally they are like christmas trees" he assured us. We didn't care. It had been a perfect enough trip for us.


We turned back into the Kumai River and in the distance the masthead light of Reflections IV could be seen. Our home had been looked after well, Ketut, our bird was still singing and we climbed into our bunks well satisfied with our adventure.

 
 A final note on how happy we were with the trip. Harry, Jien and Jenne made our children, Courtney and Anna, so welcome. They played games with them, sang songs, making our holiday all the more relaxing.
 
 

 The next few days we relaxed and thought about getting moving again. Easter and that bunny came, and being on holidays we had a relaxed time. One night Liz woke thinking there was someone on deck. Looking at she heard scratching and rustling and soon realised a huge clump of nipa palms had floated past and rubbed against the boat. We saw a few more go past in the daylight, then this monster hit us and bumped down the side. The hazards of the rivers of Borneo!


From here we sail to Malaysia. First stop will be Johor Bahru just across from Singapore. We hope for wind (as usual) and plan to take our time stopping at a few small islands on the way. Read Where are they now? to see how it's going.

Photo Slide Show

April 2003 - Lembongan Island - Lombok Strait

Photo SlideShow

After pushing against four knots of current all the twelve miles from Benoa harbour, we arrived at Lembongan Island. No need for us to anchor here as there are many moorings, owned by cruise operators who run day trips from Bali. We expected to have to move around from mooring to mooring, but as it turned out we only moved once in the week we spent here. Being able to jump in for a swim when we pleased was wonderful and the snorkeling was quite good only a hundred metres away. The water was refreshingly clear and clean after the habour at Benoa.

The cruise operators have two huge entertainment pontoons for the visitors to hang out on. They are ugly looking things, but do supply shade, a shower and apparently a restaurant. They even have waterslides. Before the tourism collapse this place would be chaotic during the day with water skiing, jet skis and all the other 'value adding' that goes on at tourist destinations. Luckily for the locals they are not totally dependent on tourism, as they make a reasonable living cultivating seaweed from racks which cover much of the lagoon formed by the fringing reef.

There are a number of up-market hotels on the island, away from the village. And a dozen or so bungalows along the water front. Behind the waterfront runs one long narrow street which pretty well makes up the town. No cars and only a few motor bikes makes for a peaceful place to stroll and explore. The surf is good here so many surfers know this place. Liz went for a drift dive in the passage behind the island and also at Toyapakeh, with large coral gardens. Her account was of a good dive and feeling happy with her day.

We had a few meals ashore at the different places and enjoyed the stunning sunsets each night, and the views of the Bali mainland with the largest mountain Gunung Agung showing itself through clouds occasionally. Schoolwork carried on, and we tried our best to fall into our old routine again.i

Over the weeks before, much mention was made how April 2nd was a 'total shut down day'. Nothing would be open as this was something like the start of the Hindu new year (we think!). Not until we reached Lembongan and spoke to some of the locals did we find out that there would be a large celebration the night before. In the street we saw large floats with large Hindu figures on them being prepared.



So that evening we went ashore and first went to the temple where virtually the whole town was assembled. The streets surrounding the temple where crowded with men knelt down, with the women assembled at a nearby pavillion. Everyone dressed in their finest - quite a sight. After the ceremony the town was purged of the old spirits by everyone going along back to their houses with flame torches and banging bamboo poles to chase at the old spirits. We were at a restaurant when the staff arrived back and we watched this ceremony work it's way through the grounds of the bungalows and restaurant. Then, along the waterfront a large group made their way along carrying torches and sticks making a racket and clearing the bay of the old spirits.



After drinks and a snack we went out into the street to watch the celebrations. There were three floats each constructed by different parts of the town, north south and east. The floats are carried by the young men representing their area, and they do their best to make the figures look as real as possible by lifting, swinging and rocking the floats to make the figures look fantastic. The town suffered a blackout (arranged or not, we don't know) and the figures with their lit eyes and torch carrying leaders made an unforgettable sight.

For those with the CD version here are movies of the street outside the temple, the beach being cleared and one of the figures making their way down the street.



After seeing the last float we went for something to eat and then made our way back. Anna was absolutely exhausted from the long night standing and watching, with the rest of the family not far behind her. This was a memorable night and having a quiet day and respecting the instructions on staying inside and no noise or activity wasn't hard to adhere to.

That night the wind got up as predicted and we felt the boat strain a bit on the mooring but hold well. It was the first time we had to get up and check things on a regular basis. Another of the routines to get back into. The next day was cooler and overcast which made staying inside easy enough. A good amount of schoolwork was acheived. In the evening we looked out and found the whole island black. The power had been turned off and this helped to enforce the no-activity rule.

We then headed back to Benoa, and had quite a lumpy trip with the wind blowing fairly hard but right in the direction we wanted to go. So once again the motor went on but this time the current was with us and we back in the harbour in a few hours.

Photo SlideShow

March 2003 - More of Bali

Photo slideshow

When we left Australia we said good-bye to our cat, Tiger. Although he was a bit of a problem aboard (marking his territory too often) he was our pet but we knew it was impractical to take him out of the country and then deal with Quarantine on our return.

We all liked the idea of a pet so we decided to give a bird a try. We knew of a bird market in Denpasar and, with the help of Ketut, our driver from the Ubud trip we went to the market in search a suitable bird. Ketut suggested a robin as a good start. The market was really interesting with lots of different birds, but often too many in a cage and some looking very poorly.

We looked around and soon came to a choice between a peach face or a robin. The girls decided to go for a robin. We then picked a bird that looked healthy, sang when called with a whistle and bargained the price. With our bird in a paper bag we then picked a cage. While fairly roughly made, the cages are really charming and have a very Asian style about them.

We named the bird Ketut after our driver (and every other fourth born son in Indonesia). At time of writing he has been with us three days now, and seems to be very content and each sunrise gives a few little songs that are nice but can be slept through if necessary.

 

With Ketut (the bird) safely in his new cage when then set off for food market. Liz wanted to get a large mortar and pestle and various ingredients for the items she learned to cook a the cooking class in Ubud. This was great, working our way through the narrow aisles in the the market hall. Having the Indonesian names made the process easy and quickly we had all the items, required.

With most fresh produce from a market it was all washed in salt water first before coming aboard to reduce the risk of cockroaches.



As most people know, Bali is mainly Hindu and everyday life is full of small and large religious practices. Temples are everywhere and all buildings have one or more shrines. Small offerings of flowers and incense are literally on every door way and entrance. Even in a Internet cafe in Ubud I found 2cm square leave trays with a little bit of rice inside at each computer. Every trip we made found us passing a procession of people decorated in their finest clothes, offerings on the women's heads, heading towards a temple or shrine.

One evening a ceremony occurred at the shrine at the corner of marina restaurant. Many of the staff arrived with their children all dressed up and set out a table in front of the already decorated shrine. People arrived with beautifully arranged baskets of fruits. We sat in the restaurant area and watched the proceedings. It was fairly light hearted but still undertaken seriously and was wonderful to watch this simple part of a truly rich culture.

In Courtney's schoolwork she was given a text called Families of the World. In it were descriptions of families from all over Asia and the Pacific, and a day in the life of these families when the author had visited 14 years ago. In the book was a family from Denpasar, Bali. They were a royal family and lived in a palace, with an adjoining hotel which they run. Courtney had to write up an imaginary day with one of the members of the family. We worked out where they lived and went to see the hotel and maybe the palace. We walked into the hotel and a man welcomed us and said to 'have a look around'. We did and Courtney was excited to see the red parrot Beo, described in the text in a cage in the grounds. After walking round we went back to explain to the man why we had come there. He had left, and one of the staff told us that he was one of the family in the book and that the next day his sister was getting married. The staff-member said we should come to watch. Courtney wanted to buy kebaya and a sarong, and now she had a good reason, as we were told to wear 'appropriate clothes'. Anna already had her 'Indonesian boy' outfit we

bought in Ubud.



So the next day we arrived at 7:30am and waited for the start. We were made very welcome and were met by the same man again and his father showed us around the palace grounds. At first we thought it strange for us to be given front row seats. As the day progressed we realised were amongst the 'well wishers', the main ceremony was in the palace grounds and we basically saw everyone coming and going. It was fascinating watching people arriving as they were all impeccably dressed and all seemed very happy about being there.

A large number of people came in and sat down quickly followed by the groom and his entourage who headed into a pavilion. After a while the bride and groom appeared and,followed by everyone, left the hotel/palace buildings. We later realised a procession back to the grooms house, with the bride & groom being carried aloft in medieval style chair, was occurring . We followed and saw the chair and waiting crowd assembled at the grooms house. Many hours had passed and heat had gotten to us so we took the girls to Mcdonalds for lunch for being so well behaved and patient. A not so typical day, definitely.

Over the next few days some shopping was done to restock the frig. Mainly a supply of cryo-vacummed frozen meat, mainly chicken and pork and fruit and vegetables. We first backed out of the mooring and went into a berth for two days to collect water and fuel. This also gave the girls to watch some videos as we currently have a dead inverter, so no TV or Video.

We left the marina and headed for Lembongan Island in the Lombok Strait. It felt good to move away, although the motor felt sluggish. A combination of barnacles on the propeller and a fierce current. First it was the tide coming into Benoa harbour and then, once out into strait a strong current between the islands - going at four knots the wrong way (for us!) doing a boat speed through the water of around seven knots gave us a speed forward of two-three knots. Making the fourteen miles take four to five hours. Still it was a nice day and no problems so a good initial trip after all that time sitting in one spot.


Photo slideshow

March 2003 A short stay in Ubud, Bali

Once we started to get the boat together and we were confident we could cast off without too much hassle, we had a trip inland to see some sights. We organised a driver to take us up to Ubud and we stayed in a cheap room for four nights before returning. While still a very tourist dominated town, Ubud is much less chaotic than Kuta or Denpassar, and worth the time to enjoy the place.

On the way up we stopped at Goa Gajah, the Elephant Cave temple, as most people do. The temples are fascinating as they are not just relics from a bygone time, but still worshipped in everyday life.

All photos taken in Ubud

On the first night we had dinner at a little restaurant, Ayu's Kitchen, in Monkey Forest Road, and then Courtney & Liz went to see a Legong dance at Ubud Palace. Anna & I were too tired and went home to bed.

Our days at Ubud consisted of school work in the mornings, and then an outing in the afternoon on most days. One trip took us to the Neka Art Gallery and we saw the inspiration of all the artwork in the shops around town. Other days we wandered the markets looking at the huge array of things to buy.

The last day in Ubud saw Liz off to the Casa Luna Cooking School. She came back very happy with the day and a cookbook, apron and a mission to produce Balinese food. The girls went to a Batik class with a local artist I Nyoman Suradnya, who is a lovely patient man who guided the girls through the process of creating their own piece of Batik. 

In the afternoon we went to Pondok Pendak Library & Resources Centre and watched local kids practicing their dances and spoke to an American volunteer helping to run the library. We made a gift of excess books the girls had outgrown.Our last night in Ubud saw us off to see wayang kulit, a shadow puppet play. While sometimes the language was a barrier, it was still very much a 'good vs evil' show and the shadow effect on the elaborately carved puppets was wonderful.

the CD Version of the web site has a movie of Balinese kids at dance lessons and the Shadow puppets 

On the trip back, we detoured to visit Mount Batur, with it's spectacular views. On the way we stopped at the small town of Tampaksiring to see Gunung Kawi, a temple with large carvings in the mountainside and Tirta Empul, a water temple. There we went for a lovely walk through the rice fields to see a not so spectacular waterfall. But the walk was worth it.

We had lunch in a very touristy restaurant on the greater crater rim and enjoyed the spectacular view. After lunch we headed down the mountains and stopped at some beautiful rice terraces around the village Garuda, which is named after and produces statutes of the mythical bird-creature, the symbol of modern Indonesia. This again was well visited and we were swamped a bit with hawkers as we got out of the car. 

We got back to the boat and then appreciated the cooler mountain climate. Back to schoolwork and jobs.

All photos taken in Ubud

Feburary 2003 - Return to Bali

I (Colin) returned to the boat a few days before the rest of the family. This was a airline ticketing issue but allowed me to survey the effects of leaving the boat for five months before the family arrived. I found my heart was racing as I approached the marina, and was very relieved to see the boat sitting pretty well as I left it. I had arranged for someone to clean it before I arrived and was very thankful I had done. On the whole the boat looked OK but I could see that before the clean it was a lot worse, with lots of mildew evident in the boat.

So then the process starting up the 'systems' and seeing where we stood. After a week we had 3 out of 4 batteries replaced, starter motor stripped down and freed up, a leaking water system sealed, a frozen gas solendoid freed up and after a swim to clean the earth plate a working radio-email system.

Just a dead invertor to resolve and most things are working! Here she sits with covers out to keep the occupants cool. Which was the big shock - the heat was a real struggle to work in.t


The girls arrived safely and through the heat we slowly started to have the boat like it was before - not completely organised but livable.

We had a day out in a rental car which was a memorable but not to be repeated experience. Driving in Indonesia takes too much concentration and the roads aren't that well sign posted. We found our way up the mountains and ended up in Ubud and had lunch and visited the monkey forest. After an unsuccesful attempt to head to Tanah Lot we headed out to Ulu Watu. Still it was a good day but for the extra $20 we'll get a driver next time.


Over the next week jobs on the boat got done, schoolwork was performed and we thought about a trip up to Ubud.

January 2003 - NZ to Newcastle to Bali

The previous page saw us settled into a routine in Tauranga on the North Island of New Zealand. Rosemary, Elizabeth's Mum, has made an excellent recovery and we left them both in good spirits.



Two birthdays were celebrated whilst in NZ. Anna had her eighth while Col was still in Bali. Harry Potter Lego was the big winner on that day. Courtney had the advantage of a term at school before her 11th birthday so she had lots of friends, as well as the cousins about. Christmas was a nice day with Virginia and Robert coming up from Blenhiem on the South Island for the holidays. Breakfast in a park and lunch at Gil & Rosemary's on a very sunny NZ day. After lunch we were entertained by the children for a while, and then of course it was back to the toys.



Just before Christmas Liz and I had a rare weekend away from the kids and went to Auckland to watch the Americas Cup racing. Light winds canceled the racing but we saw lots of the boats sailing around us and generally enjoyed a weekend out on the town. During the weekend we met two couples from boat we knew in Lake Macquarie, Colin & Vicki off the yacht My Girl and Barry & Lyn off Blue Chip. Also we ran into Kathy from the Gizo (Solomon Islands) Dive shop. Kathy's parents had a horse stud just outside of Auckland so we made a date to go and visit and, later on, had a wonderful day catching up with her and Dirk.

After Christmas we went on a bit of holiday to finish off our stay in NZ. This was firstly a short trip east along the coast to Ohope to see some friends Sue and Sean and their kids. As luck would have it we camped in the same park as Liz's brother Chris and family. From there we did a tour of the Coromandel peninsula - a truly stunning part of the world. We undertook this trip in the little Ford laser we bought for $500. We jammed ourselves in with camping gear and had our first ever camping trip with the girls.

The tent and camping gear was lent to us by Colin & Robyn Denize, who I did some work for. They kindly host our web site now.

After the huge job of packing up the accumulations of four months we set off to Auckland for the plane to Sydney. We picked up a rental car and a combination of a late night trip and the new roads out the airport put us on the familiar freeway to Newcastle in no time.



We stayed with my parents at Caves Beach and it was great to see them and all the rest of our family and friends. We had a month there with a lot of the time taken up by tidying up our house we rent out. But we managed to catch up with most of our friends and had some excellent days and evenings.

From here on the photos come from our new digital camera! This means photos will be taken with no regard for developing costs and web pages will be more timely.





On one very special day we caught up with our Solomon Islands cruising friends, Dennis & Barbara Kay, on their new catamaran Araboot. They had bought a Hitchhiker 40 catamaran and hoped to sell their old boat Toobara soon. It was great to go for a sail on Lake Macquarie. On another day we went to ABC radio in Newcastle and recorded an nterview about our travels which was broadcast in NSW on a Sunday morning - all very embarrasing but fun.

All in all our trip back home to NZ & Australia was good. We all know that we have a good life to return to after we finish the 'current project'.